Bardney's Saintly Paths and the Haunting Outlines

About trip

The gentle valley of the River Witham, east of Lincoln, has long been a fertile place, and for more than just potatoes and sugar beet. Once upon a time it housed as many as nine separate monasteries or religious houses, virtually in sight of one another, attracted by the accessibility that the river afforded as well as the ecclesiastical standing of nearby Lincoln. The first to be built was Bardney, endowed by Ethelred, King of Mercia, and its fame and popularity was sealed when it became the shrine to St Oswald. King Oswald was killed in battle in ad 642 and his body was brought to Bardney – even though his head went separately to Lindisfarne and his arms to Bamburgh. According to the story, Oswald’s remains arrived at night, and the monks at Bardney initially refused to allow the cart to enter. Suddenly a ‘pillar of light’ shone skywards from the coffin, convincing them that this was indeed a saintly person, and after that they never shut their gates. The local Lincolnshire saying for when someone leaves a door open is: ‘Do you come from Bardney?’ Whereas the Benedictine monks of Bardney wore black habits, the Premonstratensian monks (from Premontre, in France) at Tupholme Abbey, which is also visited on this walk, wore a white habit and cap and were known as the ‘White Canons’. From Matins at 2am through to Compline at dusk, they spent their days in prayer and recitation, although they also found time to rear sheep and sell wool as well as importing building stone via a canal-link to the nearby River Witham. Beyond the solitary remaining wall of Tupholme Abbey is a field where the canons dug their fish ponds. But like all the other local religious houses, its decline and ruin was swift once the 16th-century Dissolution Act came into force. Before long it was raided for building material and had farm cottages built against it. In 1998, the Lincolnshire Heritage Trust managed to step in and save what was left. To learn more about Bardney’s history, visit the Bardney Heritage Centre (open Thurs to Sun), which opened in the former railway goods shed. There is a tea room in a replica of the old station, exhibitions on Bardney Abbey and RAF IX Squadron, and you can hire bikes to explore the Water Rail Way, a pleasant 31-mile (50km) route beside the River Witham. What to look for: Bardney Abbey was founded in the 7th century ad, destroyed by Viking raiders two centuries later, then re-established as a monastery in 1087 by Bardney’s new Norman owner. The fate of the monks was finally sealed by Henry VIII, and a short-lived local rebellion in October 1536 in their support only led to the execution of several Bardney monks suspected of being behind the unrest. The monastery closed two years later. Where to eat and drink: There are three pubs in Bardney, all serving food. The Black Horse serves lunch from Wednesday to Sunday, while the Nags Head has daily lunchtime specials and The Bards is aimed at families. Food is also available at Bardney Heritage Centre and The Riverside Inn in Southrey. Directions: From the RAF memorial opposite Bardney post office, walk along the adjacent Church Lane. Just beyond St Lawrence Church take the public footpath indicated on the left, which squeezes between two fences and turns right along the end of some gardens. (This path can get a little overgrown in the height of summer, in which case follow the road around to the right, past the Methodist chapel, then left on to the main road, turning off left at the sign for the Viking Way.) At the end of the path turn left on to a wide track through the fields, with the huge British Sugar factory away to your right. Ignore the inviting permissive bridleways into Southrey Wood (left). When the wood finishes continue along the main track, which despite a kink maintains its south-easterly direction. When it reaches the buildings of Southrey it swings left past Poplars Farm. Take the first road on the right (compare the sight of the old thatched cottage with the modern brick-built village hall next door). At the end of the road go right again to reach The Riverside Inn at the far end of Ferry Road. Turn left on to the raised bank of the River Witham, now part of the Water Rail Way. The overgrown platforms and signs of the former waterside railway station make a strange spectacle, and now you follow the old trackbed beside the river for 650yds (594m). Go left at a public footpath sign and across a footbridge over a drainage dyke for a track across a field. Continue straight on as it turns into a firmer track, then the surfaced Campney Lane. At the road junction turn left and, after a sharp left bend, turn right on to a signposted public bridleway. Follow this wide grassy ride between hedges. Go through a gate and past a farm to reach the remains of Tupholme Abbey. Beyond the abbey turn right on to the road, then almost immediately left on to a quiet lane. About 750yds (686m) after Low Road Farm take the public footpath indicated between two fields on the left. The fence is first of all on your right, but when the small dividing dyke appears keep both it and the fence on your left. Go across a small wooden bridge and through another field to turn right on to a cross track all the way to the road. Go across the road and, keeping to the left of the enormous open barn, go past the farm on a wide track. Immediately before the wooden barrier, turn left on to a wide grassy ride along the edge of the woods. Walk along this very pleasant hedged thoroughfare, with Scotgrove Wood on your right. When the wood finishes carry straight on to reach the road at the end. Turn right, then, a few paces later, cross over for a wide and easy track across open fields, past a mysterious mound known as King’s Hill. There are extensive views from here over Lincolnshire’s arable flat-lands. Go straight on at a junction of tracks until, on the far side, you reach the surfaced drive to Abbey Farm. Turn right to follow the road through the farm buildings to reach the parking area for Bardney Abbey at the far side. After the monastery was closed in 1538, it gradually fell into ruin, until in 1909 the local vicar decided to excavate the site. He traced the layout of the cloister, chapter house and so on, and published his detailed findings, but as the weather caused the newly revealed stonework to deteriorate it was eventually decided to cover up the ruins carefully. You can certainly see the outlines of the buildings and general layout in the field to the right, even if you have to use your imagination a little bit, and an information board gives some useful background. To return to Bardney simply retrace your steps and turn right. Follow Abbey Road back through the houses, turning right opposite The Bards to reach the centre.