Byron's Romantic Home

About trip

Newstead Abbey was established by Henry II in the late 12th century, supposedly in atonement for the murder of Thomas à Becket at Canterbury, and the elegant remains of the priory church alone would be reason enough to visit today. However, in 1540 Newstead was handed over to the Byron family by another King Henry not so enamoured by the pious monks, and 250 years later it came into the possession of George Gordon, the 6th Lord Byron and celebrated English Romantic poet. Mad, Bad and Dangerous to Know. The Newstead that Byron inherited was empty and dilapidated, thanks to the profligate 5th Lord who had run up huge debts, so he furnished just a few rooms and used the empty ones to indulge his passion for boxing, fencing and pistol shooting, and letting his animals run wild (including dogs, tortoises, and at one stage even a bear!). The restless young man had a string of tempestuous relationships, and in 1816 moved to Italy to travel Europe in search of love, freedom and inspiration for his poetry. He was a great champion of liberty and throwing off the shackles of tyranny, once writing an impassioned piece about the treatment of English factory workers, and his final year was spent in Greece leading local freedom fighters. Byron’s work continues to be read and quoted to this day – during the Solidarity strike in Poland in the 1980s and by the protesting students at Tiananmen Square in China a decade later. When Byron disposed of Newstead Abbey in 1817 it passed through several different owners before being presented to Nottingham Corporation in 1931. Today its grand rooms, halls and libraries are open to the public between April and September, and there are fascinating displays which give an informative insight into the illustrious Byron family, including letters, furniture and other possessions that belonged to the poet. In addition to the later Victorian furnishings there are period costumes and also reproduction clothes which you are invited to try on. Behind the house is a spread of lakes, lawns and formal gardens (from a Japanese garden through to the monks’ garden and rose garden), plus a picnic area and children’s playground. In all the park extends for 300 acres (121ha) and is open all year round. Allow at least an hour to do justice to the house, and the same again to walk around the beautiful gardens. It is important to note that the car park is locked at 6pm in summer and 4pm in winter. If you do not plan to visit the house and gardens, it may be better to park free of charge in Linby and start the walk from there. While you're there: Many of the Byron family, including the famous poet, are buried in the vaults of St Mary Magdalene Church at nearby Hucknall. The oldest part of this large, handsome church is probably the tower, the lower part of which dates from the 12th century. What to look for: Freckland Wood sits astride a spoil tip of the former Newstead Colliery, one of the last of the local pits to close in the 1980s. Like Moorgreen and Oakthorpe, it’s astonishing how quickly the scars of former industry can heal, and with reclamation work ongoing at nearby Linby and Annesley collieries the local landscape continues to improve. Where to eat and drink: The Horse and Groom in Linby serves food every lunchtime and has terrific floral displays in the summer. The Café at the Abbey, at Newstead Abbey, is open all year. The Hutt, on the A60 opposite the entrance to Newstead Abbey, is a historic forest lodge which is now a busy pub and restaurant. Directions: From the main car park walk down the drive the short distance to the abbey, then on along the tarmac lane below the large Upper Lake. Follow this easy route for 1.25 miles (2km) until you leave the perimeter of the park after the second lodge. Immediately turn left and cross the stile to reach a small, dumpy hill adorned with young trees (Freckland Wood). An airy and quite easy path runs up and across its panoramic top, or else you can skirt its right-hand foot on the waymarked National Cycle Network Route 6. Both routes meet up on the far corner for a direct 1.25-mile (2km) track all the way to Linby. Turn left when you emerge close to the roundabout, and walk along the pavement through the village as far as the Horse and Groom pub. Cross over to inspect the notice board by the bus stop detailing the village’s history, then continue eastwards out of the village on the pavement opposite the second of two medieval road-side crosses. When the left-hand pavement ends cross over once more and take a popular local footpath across Church Plantation. Continue across the River Leen, then halfway up the next field go through the archway in the hedge on the left to reach the tiny Church of St James. Leave the churchyard, via the main gate, and proceed down the surfaced drive to the main road. Turn left and walk along the pavement for 550yds (503m) until the entrance for Papplewick Hall. Turn left, not to enter the hall’s gated driveway but for the wide, semi-surfaced Hall Lane that runs via a green gate past Top Farm. Where the lane bends sharply left, around a prominent brick wall, go straight on, via a gate, along the hedged farm track across the fields. Where the farm track turns right to Newstead Grange, go straight on along the main grassy track towards the wooded perimeter of the park. Follow the waymarks around the lodge and continue along a surfaced drive through the trees – look out for some ancient beech and oak along the way. About 0.75 mile (1.2km) beyond the lodge, the lane bends left and the path branches off ahead/right, clearly indicated. Soon it drops down to reach the main drive to the abbey. Turn left and walk along the road to the car park and abbey for some well-earned refreshments, and perhaps a spot of poetry.